I've been wanting to wrap up this blog for several weeks now, mainly so that I could check in and tell you that no, I did not die of culture shock - but might have died of espresso withdrawal.
In fact, re-entry to American life has been surprisingly beautiful, all things considered. When I got off the plane in Cleveland, I wasn't overwhelmed or underwhelmed - I was just home. I felt as though everything was happening just as it was supposed to happen. I had been in Italy, I had this beautiful experience there, and now I was home and more good things were happening. It was all very much in order, and I appreciated everything as it happened.
I've been home for two months now. The oddest part is separation from my roommates, who were my closest friends, my family, since January. People I used to see every minute of every day I now no longer see, and that's strange. We keep in touch, but I need to get out to visit them soon. They were all very important parts of my learning experience, and I don't want to forget that.
At first, I did worry that I was starting to forget things - first just memories, places, but then more crucially faces, and words. Now I just feel that it's all a part of the process. I recorded what I could record in words and pictures, but life keeps on moving and I definitely want to be a part of everything new.
I was lucky to visit with many of the American friends that I missed the most right away when I got home, in May and June. I was so grateful for all of these visits. I think I actually do appreciate the people in my life more, after this experience. It was so sweet to see them excited for me to be back. I think it will be easier for me to make my life a little more centered around those I care about, like I said that I would like to start doing.
I think that I am also far more conscious of the way in which I interact with people after all this. Now I've started a new job in Chautauqua, New York, working in interfaith dialogue. I work very closely with very diverse people, something I don't think I could have done as well before my experience with my very diverse roommates in Italy.
If you are interested in continuing to read about my adventures, especially my work in interfaith dialogue and social justice, I started a new blog:
http://libertyboundtogether.blogspot.com
As St. Augustine once said, "The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page." I hope this blog inspires you to take on some adventures of your own, since the core of one's spirit comes from new experiences. Buon viaggio!
Sunday, July 14, 2013
Saturday, May 11, 2013
Back to the Start
Sitting in my kitchen in Venezia, I can't believe that I have just a few more hours left in Italia. Sometimes I think back on the past four and a half months, and January feels like years ago. Sometimes I look back and January feels like yesterday.
It is so strange to leave. I kind of anticipated that I would feel something like this, but there was no way of imagining just how it feels to carve a new life for yourself in a totally new place, and to stay there and get all comfortable and adjusted and happy, and then to return to the old place that is exactly how it was when you left it. You've changed, but home hasn't. I just can't seem to process that yet.
One thing's for sure - saying goodbye in Venezia was no easier than Tuscania or Roma. Maybe it was harder. Last night, we made a massive farewell dinner at the school. Our history teacher (the Muranese/Veneziana I mentioned before), helped us with preparing the meal, and then we all ate together out on the terrace - me, the other five students in the program, our advisor, teachers, and other friends from the school. I think it might have been my favorite meal while abroad - and this is REALLY saying something - because the company was just that warm and fun and special. All night we were talking (in a funny little blend of English and Italian that we like to call Itanglish) and laughing and joking and just enjoying the brief time that we had remaining together. Saying goodbye to all of the people who were so kind and hospitable and welcoming was tough. They taught me so much in the time I was here - about their city, their culture, and about life in general. Again I realized how little stands between people from different places or different situations. Whether you're from Mexico, Belarus, Italy, or the U.S. of A., it's all the same. You love, you fight, you laugh, you cry. And you can communicate and connect with other people about all of these things, even without a common language.
Most importantly, I think I learned something from every single person that I met over the last few months. I think about my life before I knew them, and I think about my life now that we've encountered each other and helped shape each other's lives, even if was just briefly. This is what I think I value most from this entire experience, from the opportunity to travel and to study and to immerse myself in another culture. I most value all of the people I encountered who all taught me something in their own ways. It makes me open to continue to travel and move and encounter even more new people in the future, to learn from and to connect with.
Well, United States, a domani.... And Italia, allora - ci vediamo.
Thursday, May 9, 2013
Iniziamo ultimi giorni
Every day in Venezia has been more beautiful than the last. Really, I could not have discovered a more gorgeous city for my last month in Italia. Taking the vaporetti to the little islands that surround Venezia proper is my new favorite pastime, and each is a strange world of its own. My favorite island might have been Sant Erasmo, with its strange abbreviated island farms and its lovely little beach and park and ONE lone little bar on the shore. Of course, I've also gone to the Lido a few times, to set my feet in the Adriatic Sea. Burano with all of the colorful buildings is also serene, especially if you're willing to slip away from the main drag and follow the docks around the island. I sat in quiet park on Burano and watched the sparkling water of the lagoon for hours one day, and made some of my best creative writing in a while.
Tomorrow, our history teacher (who is a REAL Venetian, but more specifically a Muranese, but still VENETIAN, goshdarnit, but also a Muranese! Get it right) is taking us to Murano to see a fornace or glass-working studio that members of her family own. She is from one of the old glass-making families of Murano, who have read their family name in an ancient golden book of glassworkers from the 16th century (imagine being able to trace your family that far!). Her perspective on Venice has been fascinating to observe, but a little sad as well. She was talking to us about the long, slow decline of the once-great Venetian empire when she said, "Siamo destinati a morire" - we are destined to die (referring to Venice).
I saw the beginnings of the Italian Alps last week in Trento and Bolzano/Bozen and Oberbozen. It was really fascinating - the tirolean culture is totally Austro-German, but was influenced by Italian culture after it was annexed by Italy. Now everything in the area is translated in both German and Italian. My father is of Italian descent and my mother is of German, so I felt like the city sort of represented me! It was a mix of the best of both cultures, from food to friendliness to festivals (it was the festival of flowers when we went). Viewing the Alps (called Dolomites in this particular part) was the most calming, serene, silent experience of my time in Italy so far. Peace just seemed to lay across the valley that we rode across in the cable car, and when we reached the top of the hill at Oberbozen we couldn't make a sound to disturb the calm of those mountains. The next time I come to Europe, I want to go to the Alps again to experience that calm. I think I'd like to live by mountains very much.
Finally, last weekend, I spent some of my final days in Italia going to the place where my great-grandfather took off from for America some 100 years ago - Palermo, Sicilia. Today, there are 5 million people living in Sicilia - and 18 million Sicilian-Americans. Many, many Sicilians immigrated to America due to mafia violence in the 20th century. Now, Palermo is far safer, and it's finally starting to open its doors to a small bit of tourism. The island was absolutely mind-bogglingly beautiful to me. I couldn't even process it. Mountains embraced the shoreline and the sun was so close and warm and comfortable there, I could have basked in it all day and done nothing else. My roommate Jill (who is also part-Siciliana) and I stayed in a B&B run by a friendly Siciliano named Claudio, who taught us quite a bit about Sicilian history but even more about the warm hospitality of the Siciliani. He made us breakfast each morning - homemade bread and croissants and fresh fruit and olive oil and cheese and tomatoes. We walked all over the old city, seeing everything Claudio told us was important, and in the evening we danced in the big outdoor market like all the young Palermiani do. Seriously, the whole piazza became one huge party, with good music and great food and more fun than you could imagine. I felt so embraced by the whole experience, and it was the perfect way to begin to wrap up my time here - by going back to the very start, to the very port that my great-grandfather left from decades ago. Somehow, it just felt like the perfect culmination to all I've learned and seen.
Tomorrow, our history teacher (who is a REAL Venetian, but more specifically a Muranese, but still VENETIAN, goshdarnit, but also a Muranese! Get it right) is taking us to Murano to see a fornace or glass-working studio that members of her family own. She is from one of the old glass-making families of Murano, who have read their family name in an ancient golden book of glassworkers from the 16th century (imagine being able to trace your family that far!). Her perspective on Venice has been fascinating to observe, but a little sad as well. She was talking to us about the long, slow decline of the once-great Venetian empire when she said, "Siamo destinati a morire" - we are destined to die (referring to Venice).
I saw the beginnings of the Italian Alps last week in Trento and Bolzano/Bozen and Oberbozen. It was really fascinating - the tirolean culture is totally Austro-German, but was influenced by Italian culture after it was annexed by Italy. Now everything in the area is translated in both German and Italian. My father is of Italian descent and my mother is of German, so I felt like the city sort of represented me! It was a mix of the best of both cultures, from food to friendliness to festivals (it was the festival of flowers when we went). Viewing the Alps (called Dolomites in this particular part) was the most calming, serene, silent experience of my time in Italy so far. Peace just seemed to lay across the valley that we rode across in the cable car, and when we reached the top of the hill at Oberbozen we couldn't make a sound to disturb the calm of those mountains. The next time I come to Europe, I want to go to the Alps again to experience that calm. I think I'd like to live by mountains very much.
Finally, last weekend, I spent some of my final days in Italia going to the place where my great-grandfather took off from for America some 100 years ago - Palermo, Sicilia. Today, there are 5 million people living in Sicilia - and 18 million Sicilian-Americans. Many, many Sicilians immigrated to America due to mafia violence in the 20th century. Now, Palermo is far safer, and it's finally starting to open its doors to a small bit of tourism. The island was absolutely mind-bogglingly beautiful to me. I couldn't even process it. Mountains embraced the shoreline and the sun was so close and warm and comfortable there, I could have basked in it all day and done nothing else. My roommate Jill (who is also part-Siciliana) and I stayed in a B&B run by a friendly Siciliano named Claudio, who taught us quite a bit about Sicilian history but even more about the warm hospitality of the Siciliani. He made us breakfast each morning - homemade bread and croissants and fresh fruit and olive oil and cheese and tomatoes. We walked all over the old city, seeing everything Claudio told us was important, and in the evening we danced in the big outdoor market like all the young Palermiani do. Seriously, the whole piazza became one huge party, with good music and great food and more fun than you could imagine. I felt so embraced by the whole experience, and it was the perfect way to begin to wrap up my time here - by going back to the very start, to the very port that my great-grandfather left from decades ago. Somehow, it just felt like the perfect culmination to all I've learned and seen.
Saturday, April 20, 2013
Paris and Dublin and Barcelona and Venezia!
It's been a while, but all of that can be explained. We packed up and left Roma on April 5, and my four roommates and myself moved all of our possessions one last time - this time, to Venice, or Venezia as it should be called (why does English Anglicize everything?). But we stayed in Venezia only long enough to set down our things, and then we embarked on a whirlwind tour that the words "spring break" just don't seem to describe well enough.
First, we agreed that we all must go to Paris. For me, I knew that if I came to Europe, Italia was the first place I needed to go. I needed to see and understand and learn from all of the different places in Italia. But then, I knew that I needed to go to Paris. And Paris, as it turns out, was also far beyond anything I could have imagined.
Everything in Paris was so strikingly beautiful, but in such a specifically Parisian way - from the arches of Notre Dame to the stained glass of Sainte Chappelle to the decadence of Versailles to the Eiffel Tower putting on a sparkling light show each night on the hour to the artsy charm of Montemarte. Everyone told us we would want more time in Paris, and even though we had more than four days in the city, everyone was absolutely right. Paris seemed like a place where you want to move slowly, blend and become a part of the city to experience it best. Even though I know only a few phrases in French, I loved practicing - and quite frequently, people totally believed my act. Even when a local realized my poor language skills, they were still very kind to me for at least giving an attempt. I think French will be the next language I learn.
Next, we were off to Dublin, where it was extremely strange to use our native language in social settings again. However, signs and notices in Ireland are written in both English and Irish, which I found incredibly cool. The Irish are working to preserve their language, which was faltering after years of English influence. But we heard quite a bit of Irish during our short time in the country, which was awesome. We spent our first day in Dublin, and of course experienced pub culture at its finest. As a Finnish friend explained to me, a "pub" is supposed to be a "PUBlic house," and in Ireland, that is exactly how all of the pubs feel. There are a million, each as cozy and welcoming and lively as the next, and they truly feel as though you are stepping into someone's home for a few hours. There are usually couches and small tables and people making conversation, and you go in to socialize and talk to the people in the pub and get to know them and share stories and enjoy great live music - and this is happening every night! It was hard to process how different this was from American bar culture, and I loved getting to meet and chat with new people and to appreciate great musicians at every establishment we went into. You feel at home, a guest in someone's public house for a short while, and I think this was the best sort of entertainment I've stumbled upon so far in Europe.
While in Ireland, we went on a special bus tour of the countryside. For two days, we drove through several counties and encountered small villages (such as Cong, the home of a gorgeous forest full of trails and the setting of a John Wayne film), breathtaking countryside (as in Connemara and the surrounding lakes region), and the Cliffs of Moher. We stopped in Galway on the first day and stayed there overnight, which is a smaller city with some of the most famous pub life in Ireland. Here my roommate and I watched college student musicians put on a few sets, and then relocated to a different pub where traditional musicians were playing to accompany Irish dancers.
Traveling through that countryside was beyond beautiful - the mountains, the lakes, the cliffs, the sea. I wanted to get out and somehow embrace that land, if it were in any way possible. On the way, we learned about both the joyous and the tragic aspects of Irish history - especially about English occupation and the famine. Passing by famine shacks was a moving reminder of what widespread poverty can do to a people. But the people would never touch a stone of those shacks - they are a constant memorial to those who suffered, a constant reminder of the strength of the Irish spirit, and a preventative warning to never let something like that happen again.
Our last stop was Barcelona, Spain, where the Spanish culture and Spanish weather were equally as fun. After freezing in Paris and Dublin, a little sunshine in Barcelona was exactly what we needed. We spent a whirlwind day touring all of the crazy, imaginative Gaudi architecture that makes Barcelona so unique, and then we went to Barceloneta beach to relax before heading out for a Flamenco show. At the show, we saw traditional Spanish flamenco dancing, singing, and clapping, which was extremely intense and incredibly beautiful. Afterward, we went out for tappas and sangria, or Spanish aperitivo as I like to think of it. Travel-worn and beautifully happy, we returned to Venezia with plenty of experiences to ponder and reminisce upon.
Now we are gearing up for our last few weeks in Italia. Here in Venezia, the weather is absolutely beautiful, and we spend each day exploring a different part of the islands. Surprisingly, tourists stick to just a few main attractions here and totally miss the most beautiful, haunting, hidden parts of Venice as she sits in puddles of the most elegant decay. I don't want to say too much more about Venezia yet, though - we'll leave that for next time. ;)
Everything in Paris was so strikingly beautiful, but in such a specifically Parisian way - from the arches of Notre Dame to the stained glass of Sainte Chappelle to the decadence of Versailles to the Eiffel Tower putting on a sparkling light show each night on the hour to the artsy charm of Montemarte. Everyone told us we would want more time in Paris, and even though we had more than four days in the city, everyone was absolutely right. Paris seemed like a place where you want to move slowly, blend and become a part of the city to experience it best. Even though I know only a few phrases in French, I loved practicing - and quite frequently, people totally believed my act. Even when a local realized my poor language skills, they were still very kind to me for at least giving an attempt. I think French will be the next language I learn.
Next, we were off to Dublin, where it was extremely strange to use our native language in social settings again. However, signs and notices in Ireland are written in both English and Irish, which I found incredibly cool. The Irish are working to preserve their language, which was faltering after years of English influence. But we heard quite a bit of Irish during our short time in the country, which was awesome. We spent our first day in Dublin, and of course experienced pub culture at its finest. As a Finnish friend explained to me, a "pub" is supposed to be a "PUBlic house," and in Ireland, that is exactly how all of the pubs feel. There are a million, each as cozy and welcoming and lively as the next, and they truly feel as though you are stepping into someone's home for a few hours. There are usually couches and small tables and people making conversation, and you go in to socialize and talk to the people in the pub and get to know them and share stories and enjoy great live music - and this is happening every night! It was hard to process how different this was from American bar culture, and I loved getting to meet and chat with new people and to appreciate great musicians at every establishment we went into. You feel at home, a guest in someone's public house for a short while, and I think this was the best sort of entertainment I've stumbled upon so far in Europe.
While in Ireland, we went on a special bus tour of the countryside. For two days, we drove through several counties and encountered small villages (such as Cong, the home of a gorgeous forest full of trails and the setting of a John Wayne film), breathtaking countryside (as in Connemara and the surrounding lakes region), and the Cliffs of Moher. We stopped in Galway on the first day and stayed there overnight, which is a smaller city with some of the most famous pub life in Ireland. Here my roommate and I watched college student musicians put on a few sets, and then relocated to a different pub where traditional musicians were playing to accompany Irish dancers.
Traveling through that countryside was beyond beautiful - the mountains, the lakes, the cliffs, the sea. I wanted to get out and somehow embrace that land, if it were in any way possible. On the way, we learned about both the joyous and the tragic aspects of Irish history - especially about English occupation and the famine. Passing by famine shacks was a moving reminder of what widespread poverty can do to a people. But the people would never touch a stone of those shacks - they are a constant memorial to those who suffered, a constant reminder of the strength of the Irish spirit, and a preventative warning to never let something like that happen again.Our last stop was Barcelona, Spain, where the Spanish culture and Spanish weather were equally as fun. After freezing in Paris and Dublin, a little sunshine in Barcelona was exactly what we needed. We spent a whirlwind day touring all of the crazy, imaginative Gaudi architecture that makes Barcelona so unique, and then we went to Barceloneta beach to relax before heading out for a Flamenco show. At the show, we saw traditional Spanish flamenco dancing, singing, and clapping, which was extremely intense and incredibly beautiful. Afterward, we went out for tappas and sangria, or Spanish aperitivo as I like to think of it. Travel-worn and beautifully happy, we returned to Venezia with plenty of experiences to ponder and reminisce upon.
Now we are gearing up for our last few weeks in Italia. Here in Venezia, the weather is absolutely beautiful, and we spend each day exploring a different part of the islands. Surprisingly, tourists stick to just a few main attractions here and totally miss the most beautiful, haunting, hidden parts of Venice as she sits in puddles of the most elegant decay. I don't want to say too much more about Venezia yet, though - we'll leave that for next time. ;)
Friday, March 29, 2013
Roma
Before I left Florence, my advisor, Ambra - who was a pretty cool, hip, young advisor - said she was excited for me to go to Roma and live, "the capital life."
I'll admit, I was a little afraid at the time that big-city life just meant noise, pickpockets, and swarms of tourists.
As it turns out, it does in fact mean all of those things - but it also means a whirlwind of experiences everyday, a never-ending list of places to see, people to meet, and history to learn. Life in Roma lives you, as some say, and I feel as though I blinked and the past few weeks in Roma flew by.
In Roma we were graced with an absolutely incredible history class, with a fascinating and fun teacher who took us on little field trips all throughout the city, explaining each piece of history and why exactly we MUST find it interesting and culturally significant. We went to the Colosseum, the Roman Forum, the Arch of Constantine, several medieval churches, a few early-Christian churches, the Vatican Museums, and Castel Sant'Angelo, which was originally the tomb of the emperor Hadrian. As our teacher, Tiziana, constantly reminds us, it's crucial to learn about these events and places and people that contributed to the culmination of Western culture as we know it today. To understand the way in which westerners perceive the world, it's important to know our history and the reasons we think and speak and act the way we do.
Some of the art I've encountered here is so striking that it seems to shock you despite the gap of the passage of centuries. One great example is the School of Athens in the Rooms of Raphael at the Vatican Museums. I can't explain the feeling of walking into that room and seeing the massive fresco of a concept that we covered in LEAD 101 again and again - the philosophies of Plato and Aristotle, the dichotomy between the human and the divine.
I've been lucky to have taken two weekend trips while in Roma, both of which allowed me more fascinating glimpses into life in other regions. One weekend we went to Napoli and Pompeii. Now Napoli - she's a massive, sprawling, filthy, shouting, emphatic, colorful, beautiful mess of a gorgeous city. Life is just a little more REAL in Napoli, and yet couldn't possibly be real at all. We walked down alleys in Napoli that were so dark and terrifying we went around the bend and laughed as we walked through them, too scared for anything else. Of course, we had the famous pizza at the same pizzeria where they filled Eat, Pray, Love, where a signed photograph of Julia Roberts hung on the wall. We went to a world-class archeological museum and saw the colorful citizens of the city take their evening passaggiata, and for one fleeting day we got our taste of that crazy, emotional, passionate, furious, easy-going life.
Pompeii was, predictably, absolutely mind-blowing. You go there knowing it's a whole city, but my word - it's an entire city. You could spend an entire day exploring that city like any other, except this is an ancient Roman city that's been relatively untouched since it's untimely volcanic demise. Vesuvius smolders smirkingly in the background all day, winking at you as you wind around the corners and stumble into the stark realization that these ancient Romans had everything we have, from advanced plumbing to "beware of dog" signs to fast food. It's surreal and it's strange, but hauntingly beautiful.
Our next weekend trip was to Sorrento, home of lemon groves and one of the most beautiful Mediterranean coastlines in the world. Don't stop twice to think; just go. We arrived in Sorrento and immediately grabbed gelato; the man in the shop noticed my budding Italian language skills and told me to please, sit down a moment and practice conversation with him outside. I was nearly floored - how kind, to want to help me practice! - but we had to run to catch a bus to the Amalfi Coast. Which was well worth it, because the entire bus ride balanced precariously along the edge of a cliff and looked something like this:
The next day, we went to the island of Capri, which is a famous vacation destination for everyone from Roman emperors to movie stars. You may wonder why, based on the wretched nature of my oh-so-unsightly pictures, right? When you go to Capri, the Blue Grotto is an overpriced must-see. A gorgeous boat ride around the island takes you to the grotto, and swarthy oarsmen haul you into little rowboats to lay down and squeeze into a cave. But the cave, lit from underneath by the sun, is the most beautiful blue refuge you've been inside - and if you're lucky, your boatsmen will do his best rendition of O Sole Mio. No, really. And you must also take the bus to Anacapri and ride the chairlift to the top of the island. I don't think I've experienced a more tranquil and peaceful three hours of my life than the ride up, the time spent looking out, and the ride down from that beautiful mountain.
The other night, our advisor Roberto took us walking in Trastevere, a hip little neighborhood in the south of Roma, and at the end of the evening we found ourselves sitting on the steps of a fountain in the middle of a piazza, laughing and talking and just enjoying each other's company, and I thought that maybe THIS was Roma more than any of the ancient history can "explain you," because this is what truly makes la vita bella - it's the people you come to know. Still, I write to my friend and teacher from Tuscania, and whether it's someone like that with whom I want to communicate for the rest of my life, or whether it's someone in a shop who I know for a few moments, these are the people that comprise my bella esperienza.
I'll admit, I was a little afraid at the time that big-city life just meant noise, pickpockets, and swarms of tourists.
As it turns out, it does in fact mean all of those things - but it also means a whirlwind of experiences everyday, a never-ending list of places to see, people to meet, and history to learn. Life in Roma lives you, as some say, and I feel as though I blinked and the past few weeks in Roma flew by.
In Roma we were graced with an absolutely incredible history class, with a fascinating and fun teacher who took us on little field trips all throughout the city, explaining each piece of history and why exactly we MUST find it interesting and culturally significant. We went to the Colosseum, the Roman Forum, the Arch of Constantine, several medieval churches, a few early-Christian churches, the Vatican Museums, and Castel Sant'Angelo, which was originally the tomb of the emperor Hadrian. As our teacher, Tiziana, constantly reminds us, it's crucial to learn about these events and places and people that contributed to the culmination of Western culture as we know it today. To understand the way in which westerners perceive the world, it's important to know our history and the reasons we think and speak and act the way we do.
Some of the art I've encountered here is so striking that it seems to shock you despite the gap of the passage of centuries. One great example is the School of Athens in the Rooms of Raphael at the Vatican Museums. I can't explain the feeling of walking into that room and seeing the massive fresco of a concept that we covered in LEAD 101 again and again - the philosophies of Plato and Aristotle, the dichotomy between the human and the divine.I've been lucky to have taken two weekend trips while in Roma, both of which allowed me more fascinating glimpses into life in other regions. One weekend we went to Napoli and Pompeii. Now Napoli - she's a massive, sprawling, filthy, shouting, emphatic, colorful, beautiful mess of a gorgeous city. Life is just a little more REAL in Napoli, and yet couldn't possibly be real at all. We walked down alleys in Napoli that were so dark and terrifying we went around the bend and laughed as we walked through them, too scared for anything else. Of course, we had the famous pizza at the same pizzeria where they filled Eat, Pray, Love, where a signed photograph of Julia Roberts hung on the wall. We went to a world-class archeological museum and saw the colorful citizens of the city take their evening passaggiata, and for one fleeting day we got our taste of that crazy, emotional, passionate, furious, easy-going life.
Our next weekend trip was to Sorrento, home of lemon groves and one of the most beautiful Mediterranean coastlines in the world. Don't stop twice to think; just go. We arrived in Sorrento and immediately grabbed gelato; the man in the shop noticed my budding Italian language skills and told me to please, sit down a moment and practice conversation with him outside. I was nearly floored - how kind, to want to help me practice! - but we had to run to catch a bus to the Amalfi Coast. Which was well worth it, because the entire bus ride balanced precariously along the edge of a cliff and looked something like this:
The next day, we went to the island of Capri, which is a famous vacation destination for everyone from Roman emperors to movie stars. You may wonder why, based on the wretched nature of my oh-so-unsightly pictures, right? When you go to Capri, the Blue Grotto is an overpriced must-see. A gorgeous boat ride around the island takes you to the grotto, and swarthy oarsmen haul you into little rowboats to lay down and squeeze into a cave. But the cave, lit from underneath by the sun, is the most beautiful blue refuge you've been inside - and if you're lucky, your boatsmen will do his best rendition of O Sole Mio. No, really. And you must also take the bus to Anacapri and ride the chairlift to the top of the island. I don't think I've experienced a more tranquil and peaceful three hours of my life than the ride up, the time spent looking out, and the ride down from that beautiful mountain.
The other night, our advisor Roberto took us walking in Trastevere, a hip little neighborhood in the south of Roma, and at the end of the evening we found ourselves sitting on the steps of a fountain in the middle of a piazza, laughing and talking and just enjoying each other's company, and I thought that maybe THIS was Roma more than any of the ancient history can "explain you," because this is what truly makes la vita bella - it's the people you come to know. Still, I write to my friend and teacher from Tuscania, and whether it's someone like that with whom I want to communicate for the rest of my life, or whether it's someone in a shop who I know for a few moments, these are the people that comprise my bella esperienza.
Thursday, March 14, 2013
Habemus Papam
Here follows a few of my initial thoughts after stumbling serendipitously into the thick of this papal transition:
I moved to Rome on March 1, literally the day after former Pope Benedict XVI officially renounced the papacy (he flew out of the Vatican on February 28 in private helicopter; I'm actually visiting the Castelli Romani, near where he is currently living, next weekend). Most of Rome falls on the east side of the Tiber River - that's where the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain and the Colosseum and all the most notable Roman landmarks are. But the Vatican is on the west side of the river, at the Ottaviano metro stop - and that is EXACTLY where I live. St. Peter's is just a three-minute walk from my apartment door.
I moved to Rome on March 1, literally the day after former Pope Benedict XVI officially renounced the papacy (he flew out of the Vatican on February 28 in private helicopter; I'm actually visiting the Castelli Romani, near where he is currently living, next weekend). Most of Rome falls on the east side of the Tiber River - that's where the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain and the Colosseum and all the most notable Roman landmarks are. But the Vatican is on the west side of the river, at the Ottaviano metro stop - and that is EXACTLY where I live. St. Peter's is just a three-minute walk from my apartment door.By another stroke of luck, my roommates and I were on the metro Tuesday evening when a bunch of American students rushed onto the train, talking loudly about how if they ran to the Vatican, they would get there in time to see the smoke of the first round of voting. So my roommates and I looked at each other and silently agreed to make the mad dash - along with a rapidly growing crowd - to St. Peter's Square. As we got to the square Tuesday night, it was rapidly filling with people from all over the world (but mainly Italians), and we waited until 7:40 PM to see black smoke pouring out of the chimney above the Sistine Chapel - a sign that the cardinals had not reached a decision with this vote. It felt so cool to be a part of that historic moment, and to be surrounded by a passionate crowd just as tuned-in as you are to how momentous this moment is. It was exciting for all of us; there was almost an intangible bond between the people in the square because we were all experiencing history together.
The following evening (Wednesday, last night), we heard news that the Sistine Chapel was billowing white smoke. The new pope had been elected, and people everywhere were rushing to St. Peter's to see his first address! So my roommates and I dashed out the door and to the Vatican, falling in line among the biggest crowd I have ever been a part of in my life. People packed into the huge square, filling it entirely. Then the police opened up the colonnade surrounding the square (which is where I stood), and then the area even outside of that. There had to be tens of thousands of people there. And this was not just any crowd - this was the most excited crowd I have ever seen. People were cheering, praying, evening crying tears of joy about being a part of this moment. "Viva il papa!" was the cheer from many of the Italians present. The crowd was electric.
Finally, a cardinal came out and announced habemus papum, "we have a pope," in Latin. The crowd went absolutely wild with excitement. Then Jorge Mario Bergoglio - now Frances I - came out onto the balcony, humbly it seemed, waving. It was hard to hear, but I could understand a little bit of his brief address in Italian. One of the first things he asked was for the crowd to pray together. "Pray for me, and for the world," he asked simply. Then he led thousands of people in the Our Father, Hail Mary, and Glory Be. I can't explain how incredibly thrilling it was to hear that huge crowd reciting those prayers in unison - most people in Italian, a few in Latin, and me personally, in a blend of both (plus English). It echoed through the whole piazza, and it really did feel like we could in that moment pray for the entire world. Regardless of personal beliefs, here were thousands of people looking to this important spiritual leader as someone with power to bring some positive change to everyone on this planet, to use his power in a way that brings humanity closer together, and they prayed to grant him the courage and fortitude and faith to do just that.
Frances's address was simple and brief. It wasn't flowery, with lots of dramatic pauses and varying tones. To me, it seemed as though he spoke as though he were just having a conversation with someone right in front of him. I am really looking forward to going and hearing his public addresses and his Easter address. I didn't know before I left for Italy that I would live in Rome exactly during the time of a papal transition, but being a part of this page in history has been an unforgettable experience in my life. No matter what you believe, being in the thick of such a massive crowd that is so passionate, so hopeful, and so excited for the future of this faith is an absolutely indescribable experience. I feel so much more personally connected to this event than if I had simply watched it on the news. To me, it makes the world feel so much closer and so much more connected, and it inspires me to contribute in my own little way to that hopeful future that thousands were praying for.
Mixing it up in Belgium
Last weekend, I had the lovely opportunity to visit Maggie Pike (http://margaretpike.blogspot.be) in Brussels, Belgium, where she is currently studying abroad as well. Maggie and I are the only two Marietta College students in Europe this semester, so we figured we really ought to meet up - and it ended being a brilliant idea.
Maggie has the best of both worlds - a home-stay family and her own apartment on the first floor of the home-stay. Her family was incredible - for more about them, see her blog. But they spoke Spanish and French, neither of which I speak at all, so I spoke Italian to them... And they actually understood me! When they spoke to us, it was this seamless blend of French and Spanish that seemed almost to be a different language in itself - and I actually understood that! This made me pretty excited, having once studied Latin, the root of these romance languages - maybe I will set in on learning some French, once I nail down Italian.
Brussels itself was a fascinating city, with everything translated into both French and Dutch and sometimes a third language (usually German or English). It was so weird to see such an extreme blending of cultures and languages, but it's just the way of life in Brussels. After a while, all those different languages just started sounding like one big language with LOTS of different words. I think I understand why they put the EU in Brussels.
The highlight of my stay with Maggie was a really interesting dinner that we went to on Saturday night. An American former study-abroad student befriended us and invited us to dinner at her boyfriend's parents' house. This dinner was perhaps the most multicultural experience of my life. Bethany (the former student) was American, but spoke excellent French. The boyfriend was Belgian, so he spoke French and Dutch and English, and did his Belgian mother. His father was Russian and Lithuanian, so he spoke both of those languages, along with French and Dutch and English, and a little Polish as well - and they invited their two Polish friends over that evening, one of whom spoke a little Italian with me. Over the course of dinner, people began sharing family stories - and we all realized just how much we had in common. Turns out, parents all over the world have embarrassing stories about their kids growing up. After that whirlwind of a night, Maggie and I and her roommate walked home shaking our heads, hardly believing such a magical evening happened.
Maggie was a fantastic tour guide, and we even went to a few places that she had never been, so we both got to explore! We went shopping around the Grand Place, bought waffles and chocolate and lace, tried Belgian beer, and went to a number of other Brussels landmarks, including Mannekin Pis, the weird and futuristic Atomium and the very interesting EU Parlimentarium.
I've been really lucky to visit with some familiar faces while I've been abroad. It's nice to be able to talk to someone who cares about the same silly little things in Marietta that I miss, too. I think it was a refreshing change for both of us, and I couldn't thank Maggie enough for being my ambassador to Brussels!
Maggie has the best of both worlds - a home-stay family and her own apartment on the first floor of the home-stay. Her family was incredible - for more about them, see her blog. But they spoke Spanish and French, neither of which I speak at all, so I spoke Italian to them... And they actually understood me! When they spoke to us, it was this seamless blend of French and Spanish that seemed almost to be a different language in itself - and I actually understood that! This made me pretty excited, having once studied Latin, the root of these romance languages - maybe I will set in on learning some French, once I nail down Italian.Brussels itself was a fascinating city, with everything translated into both French and Dutch and sometimes a third language (usually German or English). It was so weird to see such an extreme blending of cultures and languages, but it's just the way of life in Brussels. After a while, all those different languages just started sounding like one big language with LOTS of different words. I think I understand why they put the EU in Brussels.
The highlight of my stay with Maggie was a really interesting dinner that we went to on Saturday night. An American former study-abroad student befriended us and invited us to dinner at her boyfriend's parents' house. This dinner was perhaps the most multicultural experience of my life. Bethany (the former student) was American, but spoke excellent French. The boyfriend was Belgian, so he spoke French and Dutch and English, and did his Belgian mother. His father was Russian and Lithuanian, so he spoke both of those languages, along with French and Dutch and English, and a little Polish as well - and they invited their two Polish friends over that evening, one of whom spoke a little Italian with me. Over the course of dinner, people began sharing family stories - and we all realized just how much we had in common. Turns out, parents all over the world have embarrassing stories about their kids growing up. After that whirlwind of a night, Maggie and I and her roommate walked home shaking our heads, hardly believing such a magical evening happened.
I've been really lucky to visit with some familiar faces while I've been abroad. It's nice to be able to talk to someone who cares about the same silly little things in Marietta that I miss, too. I think it was a refreshing change for both of us, and I couldn't thank Maggie enough for being my ambassador to Brussels!
Sunday, March 10, 2013
Con Affetto
Last week, we packed up our things and once again relocated - this time, driving along the coast from Tuscania all the way to Roma - the capital, the eternal city. I wanted to record a few last Tuscania thoughts before starting in on Roma.
My last two weeks in Tuscania were filled with beautiful experiences (but who's surprised?), and I started to realize just how much I would miss this little town and all of the people there who made it feel like home for me. Our advisor, Mei, took us on several outings in our last days - to an agriturismo or farm for wine-tasting and appetizers, to a cabin built in a tree, to a local shop with homemade products and the world's sweetest proprietor, to a gelato place on a lake, and finally, to the thermal baths or terme, where we stayed all day soaking in the sun!
the agriturismo
We also went on two more day trips - one with our history class to Vulcii, a park with massive Etruscan and Roman archaeological excavations. We saw parts of an Etruscan wall and aqueduct, and also explored the remains of a Roman house - including the creepy crypt beneath it!
We then went to an Etruscan museum in a medieval castle near the site. Etruscans were fascinating to study because historians are still learning about them. We haven't deciphered their writing, and we really don't know much about their way of life beyond the way that they treated their dead.
Even though I only knew these people for a little while, their influence on me was pretty significant. I plan to keep in contact with a few of them, which helps me practice my Italian as well. It was a little sad to leave this chapter of my adventure behind... but I think Roma will prove just as much of a beautiful lesson, in a different way.
My last two weeks in Tuscania were filled with beautiful experiences (but who's surprised?), and I started to realize just how much I would miss this little town and all of the people there who made it feel like home for me. Our advisor, Mei, took us on several outings in our last days - to an agriturismo or farm for wine-tasting and appetizers, to a cabin built in a tree, to a local shop with homemade products and the world's sweetest proprietor, to a gelato place on a lake, and finally, to the thermal baths or terme, where we stayed all day soaking in the sun!
the agriturismo
the house in the tree
We also went on two more day trips - one with our history class to Vulcii, a park with massive Etruscan and Roman archaeological excavations. We saw parts of an Etruscan wall and aqueduct, and also explored the remains of a Roman house - including the creepy crypt beneath it!
Our advisor Massimo took us to Civita di Bagnoregio, a place which seemed extra-strange and haunting due to the fog hanging around the town that day. The Civita sits atop a steep hill, and the sides of the hill are continually eroding from rain and landslides, making the Civita look ever-more precarious and interesting. When we saw it, it seemed to be rising out of the fog, and we seemed to be walking out of the clouds themselves when we came down. Massimo took us to his favorite bruschetteria, where we had amazing bruschetta, sausages, roasted potatoes, and house wine. The restaurant had a big fireplace in the back where they cooked the entire meal.
What I realized I would miss most about Tuscania, though, was the people. I was lucky in Tuscania to have three absolutely amazing (and very different) advisors, who had the time to really teach me about life in general and life in this place in particular. I will also really miss my Italian teacher, who proved to me how easy it can be to communicate with no common language between you if you simply want it enough. Some things are just universal, and friendship is one of those things. On the last day of classes, I wrote my teacher a note in Italian, and had my advisor proofread it. "How should I end my letter?" I asked her. "Con affetto," she responded with certainty. I think this is the perfect phrase to end my stay in Tuscania, too - with affection.
Even though I only knew these people for a little while, their influence on me was pretty significant. I plan to keep in contact with a few of them, which helps me practice my Italian as well. It was a little sad to leave this chapter of my adventure behind... but I think Roma will prove just as much of a beautiful lesson, in a different way.Tuesday, February 19, 2013
Tuscania, the Land Kissed by God
Tuscania. Where to even begin?
I had a feeling that I would really love Tuscania before I ever set foot here. Something about small-town Italy, situated neatly between farm-spotted hills and framed by mountains on the horizon seemed more than a little appealing to me. What I didn't realize was that the sun and the silence and the people would do just as much good as the beautiful scenery.
It's so indescribably peaceful here. My weeks in Tuscania have been almost a vacation (despite my heaviest class load so far, thanks to a history class on Greeks, Etruscans, and Romans). The walk to school takes 15 minutes, but I like to take 20 because there's just no hurry here. Even our advisor speaks at a slower rate, with the most slurred Italian accent I've heard so far. 10:00 seems a good time to open your shop or bar, but maybe 11 if you're feeling lazy. Don't bother opening on Sunday, and you might as well stay closed Monday too. And stay open late, till 9 or 10 or even 11, because the evening is beautiful here - star-studded and perfect for being all socievole.
In the mornings, if we wake up early enough, we go to Bar Centrale, where literally every old man in Tuscania hangs out and has his morning caffe. If we bring our homework, they give us a free "lezione di lingua l'italiana" and then buy us coffee. Sometimes they practice their English with us, which is always a fun time.
Last week was carnevale. One of my friends lives with a host family, and her host sister invited us to ride on her float in the carnevale parade! The float was Alice in Wonderland themed, and the host sister (Orleanna) was the Queen of Hearts - so we taped up some cardboard and served as her dedicated cards! Riding the float was awesome. We were surrounded by ragazzi italiani dressed as all of the Alice in Wonderland characters, blasting music and dancing and throwing confetti into the crowd the whole time.
We also went to a church party with some elderly people from the choir. Honestly, their party was just as lively as any I've ever been to. Here, Italians dance. Dancing is a huge part of any festive gathering, and not just for an hour or two. We left after 11, and people were still dancing. It was someone's birthday, so we had a huge spread of desserts and champagne and hot chocolate. I befriended a ton of older locals (despite my poor Italian grammar), who dragged me to the dance floor and led me in waltzes, polkas, even a line dance or two. When I see them around town, they always say "Ciao!" and ask me if everything is still "Tutto bene, tuttokay?"
Just in case Tuscania isn't picture-perfect enough, I also have an Italian class that perhaps outdoes my last fantastic Italian class. This time, my teacher Marina is young - just seven years older than me - but I love every minute of that class more than I can explain. Despite the language barrier, we laugh and joke and I ask Marina ridiculous questions, when I can squeak out phrases a little more complex than my go-to's: "Si" and "Va bene."
We've also taken a few day trips: to the medieval town of Vitterbo, home of the first papal conclave, and to Tarquinia, home of Etruscan tombs which we actually got to explore!
These are a few pictures from my favorite park. I try to go there whenever possible. In fact, I gotta get back out there now... but you'll hear from me soon. Arrivederci!
I had a feeling that I would really love Tuscania before I ever set foot here. Something about small-town Italy, situated neatly between farm-spotted hills and framed by mountains on the horizon seemed more than a little appealing to me. What I didn't realize was that the sun and the silence and the people would do just as much good as the beautiful scenery.
la mia casa
It's so indescribably peaceful here. My weeks in Tuscania have been almost a vacation (despite my heaviest class load so far, thanks to a history class on Greeks, Etruscans, and Romans). The walk to school takes 15 minutes, but I like to take 20 because there's just no hurry here. Even our advisor speaks at a slower rate, with the most slurred Italian accent I've heard so far. 10:00 seems a good time to open your shop or bar, but maybe 11 if you're feeling lazy. Don't bother opening on Sunday, and you might as well stay closed Monday too. And stay open late, till 9 or 10 or even 11, because the evening is beautiful here - star-studded and perfect for being all socievole.
Our backyard
In the mornings, if we wake up early enough, we go to Bar Centrale, where literally every old man in Tuscania hangs out and has his morning caffe. If we bring our homework, they give us a free "lezione di lingua l'italiana" and then buy us coffee. Sometimes they practice their English with us, which is always a fun time.
Last week was carnevale. One of my friends lives with a host family, and her host sister invited us to ride on her float in the carnevale parade! The float was Alice in Wonderland themed, and the host sister (Orleanna) was the Queen of Hearts - so we taped up some cardboard and served as her dedicated cards! Riding the float was awesome. We were surrounded by ragazzi italiani dressed as all of the Alice in Wonderland characters, blasting music and dancing and throwing confetti into the crowd the whole time.
We also went to a church party with some elderly people from the choir. Honestly, their party was just as lively as any I've ever been to. Here, Italians dance. Dancing is a huge part of any festive gathering, and not just for an hour or two. We left after 11, and people were still dancing. It was someone's birthday, so we had a huge spread of desserts and champagne and hot chocolate. I befriended a ton of older locals (despite my poor Italian grammar), who dragged me to the dance floor and led me in waltzes, polkas, even a line dance or two. When I see them around town, they always say "Ciao!" and ask me if everything is still "Tutto bene, tuttokay?"
Just in case Tuscania isn't picture-perfect enough, I also have an Italian class that perhaps outdoes my last fantastic Italian class. This time, my teacher Marina is young - just seven years older than me - but I love every minute of that class more than I can explain. Despite the language barrier, we laugh and joke and I ask Marina ridiculous questions, when I can squeak out phrases a little more complex than my go-to's: "Si" and "Va bene."
We've also taken a few day trips: to the medieval town of Vitterbo, home of the first papal conclave, and to Tarquinia, home of Etruscan tombs which we actually got to explore!
These are a few pictures from my favorite park. I try to go there whenever possible. In fact, I gotta get back out there now... but you'll hear from me soon. Arrivederci!
Sunday, February 3, 2013
Old Blighty and Nederland
After eight days of traveling through England and The Netherlands, I'm glad to finally settle back into Italy - but I'm pretty jazzed to recap my Northern European adventures for you!
One of my best friends from high school, Sarah, attends the University of Leicester in England for graduate school, and I went to pay her and her flatmates a visit last week. We explored the town of Leicester, which was pretty interesting to me because I got to see the town from a student's perspective.
On Friday, we took an early coach (fancy term for a bus with seat belts) to London for the day. Sarah, being a history enthusiasts and an Anglophile, was pretty much the perfect tour guide. We kicked off our day with a jaunt to Abbey Road, since we both share a deep-rooted love of all things Beatles.
Then we headed off for a walking tour led by Sarah herself, hitting all the major sights - Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, Trafalgar Square, the Tower of London, the National Gallery, Tower Bridge, and a few moments in the National Museum.
When I first landed in England, I was really thrown off by all of the English, and by the accents. I kept accidentally responding with "si" and "grazie," since I was so used to using those words in travel settings. Since I was so mixed up, I decided to find some Italian tourists and help them translate English signs to acclimate myself (plus I had some time to kill). I taught an Italian family that "exit" meant "uscita" and I helped another Italian tourist find her way to the train station ("il stazzione treno"). England seemed like such an international place to me, with food and people from all over the world. And so many things were similar to the States - even KFC and products in the grocery stores. While I liked the UK, I'm glad I didn't choose to study there and that I decided to challenge myself with a language barrier.
The British people themselves were friendly, and helpful. I understood immediately what people mean when they refer to "British sarcasm" - it's everywhere, in tons of their phrases. The Brits were fun, constantly wishing me "cheers!" But they definitely seemed more short and to the point than people in other parts of Europe, especially Italians.
Then, I left England and traveled to The Netherlands. The Dutch are extremely interesting, and I don't think I was expecting half of all the interesting things I found in The Netherlands. First of all, the land is beautiful. The Dutch have a saying: "God made the world, but the Dutch made Holland." And it's true - hundreds of dikes (once windmill-powered) reclaim much of the low-lying land from the sea. I think almost half of The Netherlands lies below sea level, and therefore the country is constantly keeping the water at bay. But the result is beautiful dikes and canals formed by world-class engineering.
To me, The Netherlands felt very homey. The country is completely drive-able, and I actually got to see much of it by car, which was cool. Much of it was rural, with small cities here and there. I spent a day in Amsterdam, which is a fascinating place. The Anne Frank house, on the site of the actual Annex, was a must-see, and the impact of that place is not small for any traveler. I loved how the purpose of the museum was to charge visitors with the responsibility of protecting human rights around the world so that such atrocities don't happen again.
I got to watch the queen of The Netherlands, Beatrix, announce on national television that she will step down in the spring and allow her son, Willem Alexander, to assume the throne as king. That was incredible, especially watching the Dutch people's reaction to this news. They seemed to hold their monarchs very dear. I can't really explain the Dutch people, but I was fascinated by them. They know their nation is small, but they are fiercely proud of their history and heritage and of their contributions to the world. At the same time, they were incredibly kind and welcoming and seemed like people I had known my entire life.
Overall, experiencing two linear-active countries in Northern Europe really helped give me a basis of comparison for my experiences in the multi-active south.
When I first landed in England, I was really thrown off by all of the English, and by the accents. I kept accidentally responding with "si" and "grazie," since I was so used to using those words in travel settings. Since I was so mixed up, I decided to find some Italian tourists and help them translate English signs to acclimate myself (plus I had some time to kill). I taught an Italian family that "exit" meant "uscita" and I helped another Italian tourist find her way to the train station ("il stazzione treno"). England seemed like such an international place to me, with food and people from all over the world. And so many things were similar to the States - even KFC and products in the grocery stores. While I liked the UK, I'm glad I didn't choose to study there and that I decided to challenge myself with a language barrier.
The British people themselves were friendly, and helpful. I understood immediately what people mean when they refer to "British sarcasm" - it's everywhere, in tons of their phrases. The Brits were fun, constantly wishing me "cheers!" But they definitely seemed more short and to the point than people in other parts of Europe, especially Italians.
Then, I left England and traveled to The Netherlands. The Dutch are extremely interesting, and I don't think I was expecting half of all the interesting things I found in The Netherlands. First of all, the land is beautiful. The Dutch have a saying: "God made the world, but the Dutch made Holland." And it's true - hundreds of dikes (once windmill-powered) reclaim much of the low-lying land from the sea. I think almost half of The Netherlands lies below sea level, and therefore the country is constantly keeping the water at bay. But the result is beautiful dikes and canals formed by world-class engineering.
To me, The Netherlands felt very homey. The country is completely drive-able, and I actually got to see much of it by car, which was cool. Much of it was rural, with small cities here and there. I spent a day in Amsterdam, which is a fascinating place. The Anne Frank house, on the site of the actual Annex, was a must-see, and the impact of that place is not small for any traveler. I loved how the purpose of the museum was to charge visitors with the responsibility of protecting human rights around the world so that such atrocities don't happen again.
I got to watch the queen of The Netherlands, Beatrix, announce on national television that she will step down in the spring and allow her son, Willem Alexander, to assume the throne as king. That was incredible, especially watching the Dutch people's reaction to this news. They seemed to hold their monarchs very dear. I can't really explain the Dutch people, but I was fascinated by them. They know their nation is small, but they are fiercely proud of their history and heritage and of their contributions to the world. At the same time, they were incredibly kind and welcoming and seemed like people I had known my entire life.
Overall, experiencing two linear-active countries in Northern Europe really helped give me a basis of comparison for my experiences in the multi-active south.
Tuesday, January 29, 2013
Farewell, Firenze.
Well, I said arrivederci to Florence last week. Next week I'll move into my apartment in Tuscania and begin my classes there. Tuscania is a small town south of Rome, and I'm really looking forward to immersion in small town life. However, saying goodbye to Florence was bittersweet, and I'll recap a few Florentine highlights that I want to remember.
First of all, the museums. I went to the Academia a few weeks ago, the home of Michaelangelo's David. David was every bit the hype around him. The moment you walked into his domed gallery and see him, you are immediately struck by the realization that one gifted man created him from a block of marble. I also loved Michaelangelo's Prisoners, figures who look like they're trying to break free of the marble that surrounds them. Michaelangelo believed a sculptor was like the hand of God; sculptures were created by God and already existed in marble - it was up to the sculptor to release them.
I also went to the Uffizi, Florence's breathtaking art museum. My favorite room was the Botticelli room. Birth of Venus and La Primavera were awesome in person - especially because Botticelli was one of the first artists of his time to break free of the restrictions of flat religious art and paint something beautiful for the sake of celebrating things that are beautiful. The ancient statue of Venus de Medici (from the first century BC) was similarly striking for her beauty.
In the Palazzo Pitti, or Pitti Palace, I saw many rooms that belonged to grand people, including the Medicis and even Napoleon at one point. We also walked behind the Palace to the large Boboli Gardens, which rewarded us with a beautiful view of Tuscan hillside.
At Piazzale Michaelangelo, we climbed flights of outdoor stairs until we reached one of the most incredible views. The city of Florence sprawls out below you. You can see the Ponte Vecchio, the Duomo, and in the distance, the mountains under which Florence is tucked. We could even see it snowing up in the mountain peaks, despite the fair weather in Florence. The sun was setting as we arrived, and I don't think I could have ever stood there long enough to drink in that view.
I went inside Santa Croce church and saw the graves and memorials of such notable Florentines as Galileo (once excommunicated from the church, his remains were later moved to Santa Croce), Dante, Fermi, Michaelangelo, and LEAD 101's own - Niccolò Macchiavelli! (His ends justified his means).
I also got a tour of Florence's Duomo, Santa Maria del Fiore, from my school. The style was Tuscan and simple, but the painting inside the dome itself - a scene of the last judgment - could give you neck pain from titling your head back for hours to look at it. My friends and I went to a Catholic mass in the Duomo. The entire time, I sat in the pews and thought about how people had been sitting in the same pews, listening to (relatively) the same mass, for literally hundreds of years. I realized how the cathedral reflected the Medieval and Renaissance concept of God - large, imposing, beautiful, and powerful beyond what we can imagine, but also cold and hard at times like the marble.
My school in Florence also provided for students a number of cultural events. We went to a shop associated with an organic farm in the Tuscan countryside and learned how fresh pasta is made - and got to take home a sample of fresh pappardelle, which is noticeably better than dried pasta. I saw how Florentine paper, with its beautiful marbled patterns, is made, and tried my hand at a pattern of my own. And we also did a mini course on fresco making, and I produced a fresco of my own of the Medici crest, which will last hundreds of years.
Florence is a city in which I felt surrounded by centuries of history everywhere I went, and I will certainly be back. What I loved best about Florence was the culture of Toscana that I had the chance to experience. Socializing and people-watching at the cafe and the market helped me understand why Florentines are so proud of their city and their region. They seem to have a relaxed, sociable way of life, chock-full of interesting traditions and norms that seemed overwhelming at first, but now seem beautiful because of how unique they are.
First of all, the museums. I went to the Academia a few weeks ago, the home of Michaelangelo's David. David was every bit the hype around him. The moment you walked into his domed gallery and see him, you are immediately struck by the realization that one gifted man created him from a block of marble. I also loved Michaelangelo's Prisoners, figures who look like they're trying to break free of the marble that surrounds them. Michaelangelo believed a sculptor was like the hand of God; sculptures were created by God and already existed in marble - it was up to the sculptor to release them.
I also went to the Uffizi, Florence's breathtaking art museum. My favorite room was the Botticelli room. Birth of Venus and La Primavera were awesome in person - especially because Botticelli was one of the first artists of his time to break free of the restrictions of flat religious art and paint something beautiful for the sake of celebrating things that are beautiful. The ancient statue of Venus de Medici (from the first century BC) was similarly striking for her beauty.
In the Palazzo Pitti, or Pitti Palace, I saw many rooms that belonged to grand people, including the Medicis and even Napoleon at one point. We also walked behind the Palace to the large Boboli Gardens, which rewarded us with a beautiful view of Tuscan hillside.
At Piazzale Michaelangelo, we climbed flights of outdoor stairs until we reached one of the most incredible views. The city of Florence sprawls out below you. You can see the Ponte Vecchio, the Duomo, and in the distance, the mountains under which Florence is tucked. We could even see it snowing up in the mountain peaks, despite the fair weather in Florence. The sun was setting as we arrived, and I don't think I could have ever stood there long enough to drink in that view.
I went inside Santa Croce church and saw the graves and memorials of such notable Florentines as Galileo (once excommunicated from the church, his remains were later moved to Santa Croce), Dante, Fermi, Michaelangelo, and LEAD 101's own - Niccolò Macchiavelli! (His ends justified his means).
I also got a tour of Florence's Duomo, Santa Maria del Fiore, from my school. The style was Tuscan and simple, but the painting inside the dome itself - a scene of the last judgment - could give you neck pain from titling your head back for hours to look at it. My friends and I went to a Catholic mass in the Duomo. The entire time, I sat in the pews and thought about how people had been sitting in the same pews, listening to (relatively) the same mass, for literally hundreds of years. I realized how the cathedral reflected the Medieval and Renaissance concept of God - large, imposing, beautiful, and powerful beyond what we can imagine, but also cold and hard at times like the marble.
My school in Florence also provided for students a number of cultural events. We went to a shop associated with an organic farm in the Tuscan countryside and learned how fresh pasta is made - and got to take home a sample of fresh pappardelle, which is noticeably better than dried pasta. I saw how Florentine paper, with its beautiful marbled patterns, is made, and tried my hand at a pattern of my own. And we also did a mini course on fresco making, and I produced a fresco of my own of the Medici crest, which will last hundreds of years.
Florence is a city in which I felt surrounded by centuries of history everywhere I went, and I will certainly be back. What I loved best about Florence was the culture of Toscana that I had the chance to experience. Socializing and people-watching at the cafe and the market helped me understand why Florentines are so proud of their city and their region. They seem to have a relaxed, sociable way of life, chock-full of interesting traditions and norms that seemed overwhelming at first, but now seem beautiful because of how unique they are.
Sunday, January 20, 2013
Sbagliando, si impara!
"No frustrazione - ma ok."
Translation: From your mistakes, you learn. No frustration - it's all ok.
Our teachers told us that Italian saying the other day, and I have to say, I really love it. Many Florentines know English, but they really appreciate it when you at least try to use Italian - and if you make a mistake, it's alright. They politely correct you and commend you on your study of the language. This gives me the confidence to practice everywhere I go. In the San Lorenzo market yesterday, a vendor smiled and asked how long I'd been studying. In the mercato centrale, a young girl started jabbering to me in a tumult of Italian when she thought I understood her, like we were old friends. When I met the women who lives in the apartment below me, she knew enough English and I knew enough Italian that we actually held a decent conversation, and I was so excited I practically danced up the rest of the stairs. Total immersion is truly the best way to learn a language, and I can't believe the progress I've made in such a short time. Last week, our instructor took our class to the market and gave us a list of questions to ask the vendors - in Italian, of course! On Friday, another instructor took us all to a cafe in the morning to practice ordering the world's most delicious pastries in Italian (sfoglietta and bombolone - trust me, they're amazing).
Last week, we had an entire day dedicated to learning the importance of gestures in Italian. In the US, we have this stereotype that Italians speak with their hands, with wild and harried gestures emphasizing every word. That's not exactly accurate. Italian is a language in two parts - the spoken language, and the gestures, which are almost as exact as American Sign Language. There are very specific gestures that mean very specific things, and if you do them in the wrong place at the wrong time, well... the consequences can get a little socially awkward. Hence an entire day dedicated to learning them! It was fascinating. I learned how to gesture "we're leaving," "I swear," "good luck," "I don't know," and "Ale!" (important for soccer games).
Since my last update, I've taken day trips to Cinque Terre and Pisa. The Cinque Terre are a string of five tiny, colorful villages built right into the cliffs of the Italian Riviera, and I don't think I've ever been to a more beautiful place in my life. Even though it's winter, we got very lucky and the day was sunny and warm. Since it wasn't tourist season, some things were shut down - like the hiking trail that follows the coast and connects the villages. However, off-season proved to be a blessing because the villages were calm, serene, and populated solely with locals. We bought the sweetest clementines at a shop in Manarola, stopped for great gelato in Vernazza, and watched hang gliders land in Monterosso-al-Mare. Although the trail was closed, we found there were still plenty of paths to hike along cliffs and soak in the incredible views. I promised Madeeha, the other student I was traveling with, that I would come back to Cinque Terre someday. I want to take the big hike through all five villages, and maybe then I'll have seen my fill of that beautiful coastline - but probably not.
The following day I traveled to Pisa. Pisa is an underrated little city - there is much more there than the leaning tower. Although the day was dreary, we walked through a small artisan fair that was set up and peeked in a few shops. The duomo and baptistery in Pisa are just as gorgeous as the tower, and the area really deserves it's name - Campo dei Miracoli, or Field of Miracles. Leaving Pisa, I started thinking about tourism in Italy. It's a double-edged sword. Although tourism prevents towns like Pisa from falling victim to the repercussions of a harsh economy, it overloads the city and takes a huge physical toll. Tourism is the largest industry in Italy. Towns like Pisa or Cinque Terre highlight their selling points in desperate attempts to cash in, but at the same time they sacrifice so much of their character to make room for tourists. I realize this seems a little hypocritical, being myself a tourist here. So what do we do? Leave the land untouched, or sacrifice a bit of it so that we can look at something beautiful? I certainly don't have the answer to that - there's a leadership question for you, 203!
Also in Pisa, I discovered this mural by American artist Keith Haring. Apparently, Haring was commissioned to paint this wall by the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. The mural is called Tuttomondo and was completed in 1989, bringing graffiti art to Italy. Across from the mural is a bar called Keith's, dedicated to the late artist. My guidebook made the following comment about the meaning behind the mural:
"A celebration of diversity, chaos, and the liveliness of our world, vibrating with energy."
Bellisimo, no?
Translation: From your mistakes, you learn. No frustration - it's all ok.
Our teachers told us that Italian saying the other day, and I have to say, I really love it. Many Florentines know English, but they really appreciate it when you at least try to use Italian - and if you make a mistake, it's alright. They politely correct you and commend you on your study of the language. This gives me the confidence to practice everywhere I go. In the San Lorenzo market yesterday, a vendor smiled and asked how long I'd been studying. In the mercato centrale, a young girl started jabbering to me in a tumult of Italian when she thought I understood her, like we were old friends. When I met the women who lives in the apartment below me, she knew enough English and I knew enough Italian that we actually held a decent conversation, and I was so excited I practically danced up the rest of the stairs. Total immersion is truly the best way to learn a language, and I can't believe the progress I've made in such a short time. Last week, our instructor took our class to the market and gave us a list of questions to ask the vendors - in Italian, of course! On Friday, another instructor took us all to a cafe in the morning to practice ordering the world's most delicious pastries in Italian (sfoglietta and bombolone - trust me, they're amazing).
Our class in cafe "Sieni"
Last week, we had an entire day dedicated to learning the importance of gestures in Italian. In the US, we have this stereotype that Italians speak with their hands, with wild and harried gestures emphasizing every word. That's not exactly accurate. Italian is a language in two parts - the spoken language, and the gestures, which are almost as exact as American Sign Language. There are very specific gestures that mean very specific things, and if you do them in the wrong place at the wrong time, well... the consequences can get a little socially awkward. Hence an entire day dedicated to learning them! It was fascinating. I learned how to gesture "we're leaving," "I swear," "good luck," "I don't know," and "Ale!" (important for soccer games).
My class and the best instructors ever, Irene and Francesca
Since my last update, I've taken day trips to Cinque Terre and Pisa. The Cinque Terre are a string of five tiny, colorful villages built right into the cliffs of the Italian Riviera, and I don't think I've ever been to a more beautiful place in my life. Even though it's winter, we got very lucky and the day was sunny and warm. Since it wasn't tourist season, some things were shut down - like the hiking trail that follows the coast and connects the villages. However, off-season proved to be a blessing because the villages were calm, serene, and populated solely with locals. We bought the sweetest clementines at a shop in Manarola, stopped for great gelato in Vernazza, and watched hang gliders land in Monterosso-al-Mare. Although the trail was closed, we found there were still plenty of paths to hike along cliffs and soak in the incredible views. I promised Madeeha, the other student I was traveling with, that I would come back to Cinque Terre someday. I want to take the big hike through all five villages, and maybe then I'll have seen my fill of that beautiful coastline - but probably not.
The following day I traveled to Pisa. Pisa is an underrated little city - there is much more there than the leaning tower. Although the day was dreary, we walked through a small artisan fair that was set up and peeked in a few shops. The duomo and baptistery in Pisa are just as gorgeous as the tower, and the area really deserves it's name - Campo dei Miracoli, or Field of Miracles. Leaving Pisa, I started thinking about tourism in Italy. It's a double-edged sword. Although tourism prevents towns like Pisa from falling victim to the repercussions of a harsh economy, it overloads the city and takes a huge physical toll. Tourism is the largest industry in Italy. Towns like Pisa or Cinque Terre highlight their selling points in desperate attempts to cash in, but at the same time they sacrifice so much of their character to make room for tourists. I realize this seems a little hypocritical, being myself a tourist here. So what do we do? Leave the land untouched, or sacrifice a bit of it so that we can look at something beautiful? I certainly don't have the answer to that - there's a leadership question for you, 203!
Tuttomondo or Whole Wide World by Keith Haring - Pisa
Also in Pisa, I discovered this mural by American artist Keith Haring. Apparently, Haring was commissioned to paint this wall by the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. The mural is called Tuttomondo and was completed in 1989, bringing graffiti art to Italy. Across from the mural is a bar called Keith's, dedicated to the late artist. My guidebook made the following comment about the meaning behind the mural:
"A celebration of diversity, chaos, and the liveliness of our world, vibrating with energy."
Bellisimo, no?
Tuesday, January 8, 2013
Siena, Epifania, e lezione di cucina
Ciao!
Has it just been a week? I feel as though I've been here at least a month. I think that every day at least ten times I admit to myself that something is much more difficult or much more complicated than I expected it to be - but you simply have to keep going until you figure it out. For example, the markets. Shopping for groceries in Italy is a completely different experience from shopping in the states. Fresh meat and cheese and produce is in one market, and then smaller convenience stores have a random assortment of other items - but you may need to go to two or three of these before you find everything you're looking for, and even then you probably didn't find anything you were looking for (and annoyed quite a few shopkeepers in the process). However, the abundance of fresh food and the lack of processed food is a refreshing change for me.
What's challenging for me at the moment is culture shock - something that I truly did not think existed or that I would experience, but I'm willing to admit that it's real now. It's not the culture itself that shocks me; it's my placement in this culture and away from my own world, and the realization that this disconnect will last for another four months. There's just nothing to prepare you for that feeling, and even though it's incredibly freeing, it's also somewhat constricting, because you can't escape this freedom for a moment. The best way to fight it, though, is to get involved - and so I have.
Last weekend, another student and myself took a short bus trip to Siena. While on the bus, we got a firsthand tour of the Tuscan countryside. Even though it's winter, the country was so calm and beautiful. In Siena, we walked around and saw the Siena Duomo (cathedral), the shell-shaped Piazza del Campo, and the outside of the Medicean Fortress. I wanted to go see St. Catherine of Siena's disembodied head (preserved in one of the churches, if you'll believe that), but we ran out of time. Siena was smaller and quieter than Florence, with lots of very lovely shops and families and children milling all about. There was a park with a carnival going on in it, and a lot the children were ice skating there. Siena felt a bit homier and less urban than Florence to me, which was a nice change of pace.
Sunday I had the opportunity to witness one of Florence's signature events - the parade of the Magi as a part of the Epiphany celebration. For those who don't know, according to Catholic tradition January 6 is Epiphany, the celebration of three kings or Magi presenting gifts to the child Jesus. This celebration took place all over Florence last weekend. When we got to the Duomo, a children's choir lined the front steps and were singing Christmas songs (in Italian, of course). Then we lined the streets for the parade, which included over 600 people marching in full historic costumes. I'm still doing research on the significance of the costumes - I'm not sure if they represented region or era or what exactly, but it was other-worldly to see them marching through the streets. There were also drum players, brass players, famous flag-throwers, and even a few random camels.
Cavalcata dei Magi
Yesterday, my beginner Italian class had our first cooking session. On Monday evenings, our instructors Irene and Francesca meet us at school for special cooking classes. Class is all in Italian, including the recipes that we're reading from. However, our instructors are probably the sweetest people in the world (they're currently my favorite part of this whole experience), and they helped us make some incredible dishes. On the menu was rose di speck (antipasto or appetizer with a bacon-like meat wrapped in dough), sugo alla carbonara (pasta with eggs, cheese, and bacon), torta salata agli spinaci (a spinach and cheese torte), and for dessert or dolce we had baci di amaretti al mascarpone (the most amazing bite-sized sweets in the world) and torta al cioccolato (thin chocolate cake). My instructor also showed me how to use an espresso press (called a mocha) to make coffee, which was awesome. These instructors are amazing - I love every second that I spend learning from them, both in the classroom AND the kitchen!
Our beautiful baci.
Thursday, January 3, 2013
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