I moved to Rome on March 1, literally the day after former Pope Benedict XVI officially renounced the papacy (he flew out of the Vatican on February 28 in private helicopter; I'm actually visiting the Castelli Romani, near where he is currently living, next weekend). Most of Rome falls on the east side of the Tiber River - that's where the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain and the Colosseum and all the most notable Roman landmarks are. But the Vatican is on the west side of the river, at the Ottaviano metro stop - and that is EXACTLY where I live. St. Peter's is just a three-minute walk from my apartment door.By another stroke of luck, my roommates and I were on the metro Tuesday evening when a bunch of American students rushed onto the train, talking loudly about how if they ran to the Vatican, they would get there in time to see the smoke of the first round of voting. So my roommates and I looked at each other and silently agreed to make the mad dash - along with a rapidly growing crowd - to St. Peter's Square. As we got to the square Tuesday night, it was rapidly filling with people from all over the world (but mainly Italians), and we waited until 7:40 PM to see black smoke pouring out of the chimney above the Sistine Chapel - a sign that the cardinals had not reached a decision with this vote. It felt so cool to be a part of that historic moment, and to be surrounded by a passionate crowd just as tuned-in as you are to how momentous this moment is. It was exciting for all of us; there was almost an intangible bond between the people in the square because we were all experiencing history together.
The following evening (Wednesday, last night), we heard news that the Sistine Chapel was billowing white smoke. The new pope had been elected, and people everywhere were rushing to St. Peter's to see his first address! So my roommates and I dashed out the door and to the Vatican, falling in line among the biggest crowd I have ever been a part of in my life. People packed into the huge square, filling it entirely. Then the police opened up the colonnade surrounding the square (which is where I stood), and then the area even outside of that. There had to be tens of thousands of people there. And this was not just any crowd - this was the most excited crowd I have ever seen. People were cheering, praying, evening crying tears of joy about being a part of this moment. "Viva il papa!" was the cheer from many of the Italians present. The crowd was electric.
Finally, a cardinal came out and announced habemus papum, "we have a pope," in Latin. The crowd went absolutely wild with excitement. Then Jorge Mario Bergoglio - now Frances I - came out onto the balcony, humbly it seemed, waving. It was hard to hear, but I could understand a little bit of his brief address in Italian. One of the first things he asked was for the crowd to pray together. "Pray for me, and for the world," he asked simply. Then he led thousands of people in the Our Father, Hail Mary, and Glory Be. I can't explain how incredibly thrilling it was to hear that huge crowd reciting those prayers in unison - most people in Italian, a few in Latin, and me personally, in a blend of both (plus English). It echoed through the whole piazza, and it really did feel like we could in that moment pray for the entire world. Regardless of personal beliefs, here were thousands of people looking to this important spiritual leader as someone with power to bring some positive change to everyone on this planet, to use his power in a way that brings humanity closer together, and they prayed to grant him the courage and fortitude and faith to do just that.
Frances's address was simple and brief. It wasn't flowery, with lots of dramatic pauses and varying tones. To me, it seemed as though he spoke as though he were just having a conversation with someone right in front of him. I am really looking forward to going and hearing his public addresses and his Easter address. I didn't know before I left for Italy that I would live in Rome exactly during the time of a papal transition, but being a part of this page in history has been an unforgettable experience in my life. No matter what you believe, being in the thick of such a massive crowd that is so passionate, so hopeful, and so excited for the future of this faith is an absolutely indescribable experience. I feel so much more personally connected to this event than if I had simply watched it on the news. To me, it makes the world feel so much closer and so much more connected, and it inspires me to contribute in my own little way to that hopeful future that thousands were praying for.
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